Overview
Granite countertop fabrication follows a repeatable workflow from slab selection through final seal. This guide covers each stage of the process as it happens in a professional fabrication shop — the tools required, the sequence, and the common failure points at each step.
Step 1: Templating
Accurate templating is the foundation of a clean installation. Errors here compound through every subsequent step.
Digital templating (recommended):
- Use a laser templating system to capture exact measurements of the cabinet layout, wall angles, and cutout locations
- Export directly to CNC or bridge saw for cutting — eliminates transcription errors
Manual templating:
- Use 1/8" luan or cardboard strips hot-glued together to create a physical template
- Mark all cutout locations (sink, cooktop, faucet holes), overhangs, and seam locations on the template
- Transfer measurements to the slab with a marker before cutting
Key templating checks:
- Verify cabinet level — out-of-level cabinets require scribed cuts at the wall
- Confirm sink model and rough opening dimensions before marking cutout
- Account for backsplash reveal if applicable
- Mark grain direction on the template if matching across seams
Step 2: Slab Selection and Layout
Before cutting, lay the template on the slab to optimize grain pattern, minimize waste, and avoid natural fissures or voids.
- Position seams away from high-stress areas (corners, sink cutouts)
- Align grain direction across seams where possible
- Mark all cut lines with a soapstone pencil or chalk line
- Identify and avoid natural fissures — cutting through a fissure creates a weak point
Step 3: Slab Cutting
Bridge saw (primary cuts):
- Use a bridge saw for all long straight cuts — rip cuts, miter cuts, and rough sizing
- Set blade depth to slightly exceed slab thickness (typically 3/4" to 1-1/4" for standard countertop granite)
- Use a continuous rim or segmented diamond blade rated for granite
- Maintain consistent water flow throughout — dry cutting granite on a bridge saw will destroy the blade and create dangerous silica exposure
Angle grinder (secondary cuts):
- Use for scribing to walls, trimming, and cuts the bridge saw can't reach
- Fit with a turbo rim diamond blade rated for granite — the Chingon Premium Side Diamond Turbo Blade is the shop standard for this work
- Always wet cut; clamp a straight edge guide for accuracy
- See: Can I Use an Angle Grinder to Cut Granite?
Step 4: Sink Cutout
The sink cutout is the highest-risk cut in countertop fabrication — a dropped cutout or unsupported piece will crack the slab.
Full process: See our dedicated Sink Cutout Guide for the complete step-by-step.
Key points:
- Support the cutout piece with suction cups or a brace before making the final cut
- Use a jigsaw with a diamond blade for corners — never plunge an angle grinder into a corner
- Cut straight sections with an angle grinder using a straight edge guide
- Stop 1" before each corner on straight cuts; complete corners with the jigsaw
- Sand or grind the cutout edge to 120–220 grit before polishing
Step 5: Edge Profiling
Edge profile is a primary design element and a significant labor cost. Common profiles include eased, beveled, bullnose, ogee, and waterfall.
Profile wheels:
- Use diamond profile wheels matched to the desired edge profile
- Run wet at the correct RPM for the wheel diameter
- Work through grits progressively — rough profile wheel first, then finishing wheels
Flat polish edges (eased/beveled):
- After profiling, polish the edge face using the same grit sequence as the top surface
- Start at the grit that matches the roughness left by the profile wheel
- Finish to 3000 grit for a polished edge; stop at 400 for a honed edge
Seam edges:
- Miter cuts for waterfall edges require precise 45° cuts on the bridge saw
- Glue seams with color-matched epoxy; clamp and allow full cure before handling
Step 6: Grinding and Surface Prep
Before polishing, address any surface irregularities — saw marks, lippage at seams, or surface scratches from handling.
- Use a cup wheel or grinding pad to flatten high spots and remove saw marks
- Start at 50 grit for significant material removal; 100–200 grit for light surface prep
- Keep the grinder moving — dwelling in one spot creates low spots
- Feather transitions at seams to eliminate lippage
Step 7: Polishing
Polish the top surface and edges using the standard diamond pad grit sequence:
50 → 100 → 200 → 400 → 800 → 1500 → 3000
- Each grit must fully remove the scratch pattern of the previous grit before advancing
- Use wet polishing throughout — water cools the pad, extends pad life, and suppresses silica dust
- Stop at 400 grit for a honed finish; continue to 3000 for a polished finish
- Finish with a buff pad for maximum gloss
Recommended pads:
- Weha 5" Schein 7-Step Polishing Pads — full 7-step system for granite and hard stone
- Weha Ultra Buff Final Diamond Polishing Pad — final buff for showroom gloss
See: What Grit Sequence Should I Use for Polishing Granite?
Step 8: Cleaning Before Sealing
Sealer applied over contaminated stone will not bond correctly and will fail prematurely.
- Clean the surface thoroughly with a stone-safe degreaser — BrioAction 3 Professional Stain Remover removes oils, polishing residue, and handling contamination
- Allow the stone to dry completely — minimum 24 hours after wet polishing
- Do not touch the surface with bare hands after cleaning
Step 9: Sealing
Apply an impregnating sealer before delivery or installation.
For standard granite:
- Tenax Proseal Premium Stone Sealer — penetrating sealer; up to 5-year protection on low-wear areas
For color enhancement (customer request):
- Tenax Ager Stone Enhancing Sealer — deepens and enriches stone color permanently while sealing
Application:
- Apply thin, even coat with a brush or cloth
- Allow 5–15 minutes dwell time
- Wipe off all excess before it dries — residue cures as a hazy film
- Allow 24 hours before exposing to water
See: How Long Does Stone Sealer Last?
Step 10: Delivery and Installation
- Transport slabs on an A-frame — never lay granite flat during transport without full support
- Use suction cups for lifting and positioning; never lift by the edge
- Shim cabinets level before setting the slab
- Apply silicone to cabinet rails before setting — do not use construction adhesive
- Caulk the backsplash joint with color-matched silicone; do not grout
- Verify sink clips are installed and torqued before leaving the job
Dust Control Throughout
Every wet or dry cutting, grinding, and polishing step generates respirable crystalline silica. OSHA's silica standard (29 CFR 1926.1153) applies to all stone fabrication work.
- Wet cutting is the primary engineering control — maintain water flow at all cut points
- Use a dust collection booth for dry grinding and polishing operations
- Never dry sweep — use wet methods or HEPA vacuum for cleanup
See: OSHA Silica Dust Compliance for Stone Fabricators
Quick Reference: Tools by Step
| Step | Primary Tool | Key Product |
|---|---|---|
| Templating | Laser templater or luan strips | — |
| Slab cutting | Bridge saw | Diamond blade (granite-rated) |
| Angle cuts / scribing | Angle grinder | Chingon Turbo Blade |
| Sink cutout | Angle grinder + jigsaw | Diamond blades |
| Edge profiling | Angle grinder + profile wheels | Diamond profile wheels |
| Grinding / surface prep | Angle grinder + cup wheel | 50–200 grit pads |
| Polishing | Angle grinder + polishing pads | Weha Schein 7-Step |
| Cleaning | — | BrioAction 3 |
| Sealing | — | Tenax Proseal |

